Written by Christi Sparrow
So you’ve decided to visit Bologna with kids, congratulations! Or you are researching Italian cities for your next family trip and are looking for sightseeing ideas, great! Or you just want to learn a few ways a family with two small children can create memories in Bologna, welcome! Truth be told, we decided to begin our extended travels in Bologna purely by practical necessity.
My husband Jay was registered for the Ironman race in Cervia, Italy, and a quick internet search told me right away that we would need to fly into Bologna and then catch a train to Cervia. Knowing that we would all be exhausted after our transatlantic flight from Washington D.C., we decided to stay put in Bologna for five nights to let our body clocks adjust and take in some bonus sightseeing. I’m happy to report that Bologna did not disappoint.
Bologna is the capital city of the Emilia-Romagna region in northern Italy. A beautiful, historical city of just under 400,000 people, Bologna is laced with long, bright orange and golden porticos and is famous for it’s cuisine. From fresh egg pasta and stuffed pastas like tortellini to mortadella and other specialty meats to gelato, there was no shortage of delicious foods. I’ll dish more details about the city’s culinary offerings later in this post, so please stick with me!
Our Airbnb apartment was just a few blocks north of Piazza Maggiore, the main square. This provided a fantastic starting point from which to walk to many family-friendly attractions. Here are some of the highlights of our stay in Bologna. I hope you will consider Bologna on your next trip to Italy! (The photo below was our Airbnb’s street!)
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Mercado Ritrovato
Mercado Ritrovato. When we travel to a new place, one of the first things we look for is a local farmers market. It’s a low cost way to meet locals, learn about regional produce, and try new foods. Plus the kids get to run around and expend some energy. At this Saturday morning market in Bologna, for example, we tried sheep and cow’s milk cheeses, bread, tomatoes, and lightly fried fish fillets. Chloe tried weaving fabric on a fishing net and playing with bread dough as part of a children’s program the market offered.
Parco della Montagnola
Parco della Montagnola. This local park was just a few blocks north of our apartment, and it was a great place to escape the busy streets and let the kids play. There were several small playgrounds, a fountain, lots of shade, a trail around the perimeter, and a couple of snack vendors. Parks are such easy family outings. There’s no admission fee, and the kids know just what to do. Chloe runs to the swings first. Camden heads straight toward the pigeons. They even made a couple of new friends on our visits to this park even with a language barrier.
La Piazzola Market
La Piazzola Market. On our way to the park, we happened upon this expansive market of seemingly everything under the sun. And we passed some great deals! According to Bologna’s tourism website, this market was established in 1251 as a cattle market and is now open Fridays and Saturdays with 400 stalls selling clothes, shoes, accessories, jewelry, art, and crafts.
Hidden Canals
Hidden canals. I had read about Bologna’s mostly hidden canals before we arrived, so I was excited to spot one on our way to dinner one night. A local tour guide later told us that the canal system in Bologna, dating back as far as the twelfth century, was quite extensive, providing a transportation route for trade with other cities and powering mills to spin silk, produce flour, and aid various other industries.
As trains began to facilitate trade and electricity replaced the need for water power, the canals became largely obsolete. As a result, some canals are covered or hidden, and some canals are still visible through narrow passageways.
Bottega Portici-2
Bottega Portici-2. This casual Bolognese restaurant was recommended by our apartment host. Situated in the shadows of the Two Towers of Bologna in Piazza di Porta Ravegnana, this restaurant boasts fresh, handmade pastas which are best enjoyed on either of their two outdoor patios: ground level or second story, where we ate.
Although the portions were on the smaller side, this place is perfect for families with young kids. The food is excellent, and the atmosphere is unique and casual. In addition, it’s open for early bird dinner times, think 5:30pm. And the patios offer the perfect vantage point to enjoy the atmosphere of Bologna with your kids.
Many of the formal restaurants that I researched don’t open for dinner service until 7 or 7:30pm, also known as Camden’s bedtime.
San Pietro Cathedral
San Pietro Cathedral. Only two blocks from our apartment, Chloe and I attended Sunday Mass at San Pietro Cathedral. And although Mass was performed in Italian, (a language I do not speak), I enjoyed admiring the beautiful space and listening to the choir singers fill the sanctuary with reflective songs. Chloe completed three pages in her Winnie the Pooh coloring book.
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Piazza Maggiore
Piazza Maggiore. This is Bologna’s impressive main square. It’s home to various important landmarks such as City Hall, Basilica di San Petronio, and the Fountain of Neptune.
You could spend days touring this Piazza Maggiore area. However, we opted for a visit to the Basilica and chasing pigeons in the courtyard at City Hall.
Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca
Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca. I decided to visit this church on an afternoon run, and I’m so glad I did. The majestic church sits on a hilltop just southwest of the city center and offers sweeping views of downtown. And it’s connected to the city by the Portico di San Luca, the world’s longest portico, stretching just over two miles with 666 arches.
The incline of the beautiful portico gradually increases as you approach the church, and stone ramps give way to stone steps. So it makes for a fantastic run or walk, but it’s not a stroller-friendly path and might be a tough hike for little kid legs.
But as you might imagine, there is another way to reach this Bologna attraction with your kids. The San Luca Express tourist train departs from Piazza Maggiore several times each day and will bring you right up to the base of the church. We took our kids on this train ride, and they loved it. We packed a picnic lunch and enjoyed our meal on the steps outside the church.
For €5 you can climb 100+ spiral stairs into the dome of the church to a viewing deck which offers panoramic views of the city, and I recommend this, too.
Note that Monday-Friday the viewing deck is closed from 12:30pm-2:30pm, which results in less tourists and a quieter experience on the basilica grounds.
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Taste of Bologna
Taste of Bologna food tour. I promised I’d circle back to the culinary scene in Bologna, so here we go! We decided to splurge on a guided food tour as a family to learn a little about the city’s history and gastronomy and to sample local foods. I selected this company because of their terrific reviews and because they don’t charge extra for children to attend.
Our tour guide Sara was extremely knowledgeable about Bolognese cuisine, and she accommodated our kiddos at each stop. First, we sampled specialty coffees with egg custard or homemade almond milk, (think marzipan in a glass). Then Sara led us through an indoor market and taught us about Bologna’s seasonal produce and growing practices.
Next we stopped for fantastic pizza and learned about each ingredient. After that we observed the art of making homemade stuffed egg pasta and attempted to make it ourselves. Then we sampled various meats such as mortadella and salami as well as cheeses and marinated vegetables. Finally, of course, we ended with fresh, creamy gelato.
The kids did great. It was a fun experience for our entire family, and we all tried lots of new flavors! What a fun way to explore Bologna with kids!
Thanks for reading to the end! To sum it up, we certainly enjoyed Bologna with our kids. We’ve already agreed that we will make a return trip one day. I hope that some of the experiences we had in Bologna entice you to visit this charming, historic, and delicious city with your kids. Ciao!
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