Written by Christi Sparrow
About three weeks into our Western Australia road trip, we found ourselves backtracking from Kalbarri south to Geraldton for five nights before heading east for a couple of station stays. This strategy was primarily due to the school holiday, (which snuck up on us!), and needing to find affordable and available accommodation. But we had only breezed through Geraldton on our way north two weeks before, so I was looking forward to actually exploring the town.
While we were in Kalbarri, I happened to read about Western Australia station stays in the pile of brochures and holiday guides we had accumulated. On a map I saw a cluster of stations in the Gascoyne-Murchison region, just a few hours’ drive east of Geraldton, so I started calling around. What is a station, you ask? The same question tugged at my curiosity, too.
Suffice it to say, stations are remote, usually rugged ranches deep in the outback and hours from civilization. Were we adventurous enough to brave a couple of outback station stays on our Western Australia road trip? There was only one way to find out. But first, Geraldton.
Geraldton: 5 nights
About 425 km north of Perth, Geraldton is a colorful coastal town of over 37,000 people. With a paved track along the foreshore, numerous playgrounds, cafes, and shops, Geraldton was a fun place to explore for five days.
We spent our first two nights at Bel Air Caravan Park in a two-bedroom cabin and our next three nights in a lovely little cottage on Hutchinson Street that I found on Stayz.com. The last best place to stock up on groceries and supplies before continuing north, Geraldton charmed us with its small-town feel and scenic foreshore.
Geraldton Foreshore
We could tell that Geraldton has invested heavily in its foreshore. There were at least four large, robust playgrounds that we found, all with restrooms near by. Every step of the paved, fully-accessible sidewalk along the coast offers beautiful views of the turquoise water and white sand beaches.
The Esplanade at the southern end of the foreshore is a lovely lookout point to hunt for local sea lions resting on the rocks. There are picnic tables and BBQ facilities scattered along the track, and there are colorful, unique accents all along the coast like some bright rubik’s cube bathrooms! The small but impressive Geraldton Museum sits along this path, too.
We had no problems finding quality coffee shops, cafes, and even a fancy donut shop, (Beached Barrel), all within a stone’s throw of the foreshore. I liked Two Foreshore for it’s delicious lattes and proximity to the playgrounds! The foreshore was definitely our family’s go-to spot for playing and picnicking during our stay in Geraldton. You could easily spend hours here!
Geraldton Museum
Chloe and I enjoyed a mommy-daughter date meandering through the small but engaging Geraldton Museum. We made our way through the museum in just over an hour, (but admittedly we did not read every display!).
The exhibits that describe the famous Australian shipwrecks which sunk off of Western Australia’s coast are especially dramatic. In particular, Chloe loved the 3D movie which shows vivid, eerie footage of the underwater HMAS Sydney, a Royal Australian Navy ship that sunk in November 1941 which in 2008 was found 2,468 meters, (8,097 ft), below sea level. The tragedy killed all 645 people onboard.
We read about animals, birds, and reptiles indigenous to Western Australia while admiring the beautifully preserved specimens. Our favorites included the kangaroos, an eagle, a sea lion, a spider, and an emu chick!
The last exhibit we saw was called “Lustre”, and it showcased the history of the pearling industry in Australia. Now Chloe knows where pearls come from! We rounded out our visit with a browse through the well-stocked gift shop where I purchased a WA-made birthday card for my sister.
Saint Francis Xavier Cathedral
Designed by the famous Priest Architect, Monsignor John Hawes, St. Francis Xavier Cathedral is generally regarded as one of his finest accomplishments. Chloe and I tiptoed through the empty cathedral, admiring the bold horizontal stripes painted on the walls and the vibrant stained glass windows. A unique, peaceful sanctuary, the cathedral is one of Geraldton’s premier landmarks. And if you have time, stop by the Monsignor Hawes Heritage Centre which is located just next to the cathedral.
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Station Stays in Western Australia: 5 nights
Well, we survived five nights in the outback! It was actually quite an exhilarating experience, and kudos to my husband Jay for encouraging us all to try it. Heading east from Geraldton, our car loaded down with meticulously planned groceries and plenty of water bottles, we hyped ourselves up for roughing it, (or at least, our version of rouging it), in the outback. We really didn’t know what to expect, and the unknowns ranged from what kind of accommodation we’d have to what creepy, (and potentially venomous?), critters we might encounter.
As I was preparing for our remote adventure, I learned that stations in the Gascoyne-Murchison region of Western Australia are huge ranches, some dating back to the late 1880’s. Some stations offer accommodation, providing guests a unique peek into outback life. Accommodation options vary widely and can range from rustic camp sites, cabins, and shearing quarters to glamping to plush rooms in a homestead.
Station stays in Western Australia are hosted by the owners, who warmly welcome visitors and explain the history and activities of their property. Many stations are working ranches with livestock, typically cattle or sheep. Station hosts may offer guided tours, self-guided walks, meals, or planned activities. Not many have cell phone coverage, and even less offer wifi.
About 100 km into our drive from Geraldton, we stopped in Mullewa and ate our picnic lunch on a park bench by a row of weathered old trucks which seemed to pose as the town’s welcoming committee. Then we stopped in the tiny town of Yalgoo to top up our gas tank and send our last text messages to family regarding our whereabouts. Turning north away from the last shreds of mobile service coverage, we set our sights on our first station: Melangata Station.
Planning a Trip? Be Prepared
Melangata Station
The 70 km drive to Melangata Station from Yalgoo was along a dark orange, dusty, nearly deserted dirt road. We saw endless termite mounds as big as toddlers, and we spotted the odd kangaroo hopping away from the road, not to mention the dozen or so kangaroos carcasses we noticed along the shoulder. It quickly became clear that we were going really, really remote, and it felt eerie driving so far into a vast expanse of empty land. I must have asked Jay to check our Google maps app about a dozen times! This was going to be an adventure!
We arrived at Melangata Station around 4:30 pm, and as soon as we pulled into the gate, we noticed several sheds and barns on the property and a large cluster of camper vans and associated campfires. We were surprised that the property felt bustling with activity— a welcomed atmosphere after the deserted road we had just driven.
Our host, Jo Clews, greeted us when we pulled up and gave us a tour of our simple, two-room, cinderblock cabin with a corrugated metal roof. She also showed us the shearers’ kitchen and the bathroom block with a (flushing!) toilet. We learned that Melangata Station is 120,000 acres, which, according to Jo, is considered a small station!
Almost as soon as we got our bearings, we were immersed in farm life. It was time for Jo to feed her lambs, so we watched her and her partner Ken bottle feed a few sweet little lambs before we headed to our kitchen to make our own dinner. I’m not sure I’ve ever used a wood-burning stove before, but we figured it out and enjoyed burgers for our first camp meal.
Wandering out of the kitchen and towards the camp fire pit, we noticed the incredible display of stars overhead. Ken stopped by and pointed out the Emu in the Sky from Aboriginal stories. The Emu in the Sky takes its shape using part of the Southern Cross to mark the emu’s beak and head and follows the dark space within the Milky Way to form its body. We were lucky to have a clear sky each of the three nights we stayed at Melangata Station, and I spotted the Emu in the Sky each night, in addition to a few shooting stars!
Speaking of night, during our visit in July, the nights got quite chilly. But we had plenty of blankets to keep warm, and it was so quiet and still and dark… like, pitch dark. And it was comforting to fall asleep listening to the rhythm of our kids’ restful breathing. In the mornings, the rooster was up before Camden— incredible!
Post you may be interested in: How to Prepare to Travel for a Year with Your Family.
After we enjoyed our first breakfast of coffee and oatmeal sitting on folding chairs positioned around our campfire, Jo gave us a delightful tour of the main homestead building. It was commissioned in 1916 by the Williamson family and designed by the well-known Priest Architect, Monsignor John Hawes, whose life is a fascinating story of travel and service and construction. (He also designed the St. Francis Xavier Cathedral discussed above.)
The homestead is the only private residence designed by Monsignor Hawes, and it took three years to build starting in 1917. Monsignor Hawes’ religious life is evident in the architecture of the home. There are seven arches and a sundial spire at the front entryway and a cozy chapel adjacent to the family room. And there’s a beautiful bay window from which the sunset can be enjoyed year round.
After the homestead tour, we explored a dirt airstrip behind the main house that has an old broken-down Cessna aircraft. The kids loved climbing in the pilots’ seats and flying all over the world!
On our last morning, Ken gave us a shortened, (two-hour), station tour. We learned that Melangata Station used to have thousands of sheep, and now he and Jo only have a few hundred which they breed to sell lambs. He took us to a majestic lookout point on a huge granite rock from which we could see for miles, and he oriented us to his station’s boundaries.
We could tell that Ken loves the land. He frequently stopped to point out native flora and fauna, show us an old well, and track animal footprints. He also pointed out a bower bird nest which included shiny objects like glass, tin cans, and foil that the male bower bird uses to attract females. The kids especially liked studying the tracks of kangaroos, emus, and sheep.
One of the highlights of our tour was when we found a beautiful, mostly clear, six-sided crystal lying in the sand along a particularly pretty line of colorful rock. Ken assured us that the crystal was thousands, if not millions, of years old. Presenting the crystal to Jo, (who said she’s been on the hunt for a crystal like that her entire life!), was a memorable highlight of our stay at Melangata Station.
There were certainly challenges as we adjusted to station life for a few days with two young kiddos. Camden was drawn to the dusty orangish-red dirt like a moth to a flame, and for some reason, he was also curious to taste it. Cooking in a camp kitchen, using an outhouse, and not having heat at night were all adjustments we figured out as we went.
Our experience at Melangata Station certainly reminded us how fortunate we are to have so many modern conveniences and comforts in our lives. We were also reminded how freeing it is to live simply and disconnect from social media and the internet for a few days! We hunted for kangaroos and firewood, built campfires, roasted (too many) marshmallows, marveled at the thousands of stars in the night sky, and snuggled deep into our beds at night as the darkness and silence surrounded us.
Below: Watch as we cook up 3 delicious campfire desserts using simple ingredients and foil for cooking.
Kirkalocka Station
Our homestead accommodation at Kirkalocka Station was a very pleasant surprise, especially after a long day of driving through the outback! We left Melangata Station around noon and stopped in Yalgoo again to eat our picnic lunch and to fill our gas tank again. Then we stopped in Mount Magnet for a comfort break, milk, and beer, (the essentials). Finally, we arrived at Kirkalocka Station around 5 pm.
Owner Blair Ridley greeted us and introduced us to the beautiful, historic, 2-bedroom original homestead which would be ours for two nights. Built in 1909 using mud bricks, the ranch home features large porches and a separate kitchen connected by a breezeway. Our favorite spot was the cozy fireplace in the large family room. Pulling our chairs close to the warmth, we could really feel the history and charm of the home as we imagined all of the family memories that have been made there.
Though it rained our entire first day, Chloe and Camden really liked our wet and muddy excursion across the grounds to visit the horses, goats, sheep, and chickens. Jay spent his day helping around the farm by cleaning out a storage room and removing a dead tree in exchange for discounted accommodation. There was even a tiny mud hut museum to explore. As evening fell, the overcast sky gave way to a blanket of stars, and the chilly sunrise the next morning was a magical pastel display of orange and pink. We would definitely go back to Kirkalocka Station!
Reflections on Our First Western Australia Station Stays
Heading back to civilization, (and the Aldi in Geraldton), we felt proud for having challenged ourselves to venture out to two Western Australia station stays. The stations were peaceful, historical, and scenic, and the hosts were welcoming, hard-working, and accommodating.
Without a doubt Chloe and Camden’s favorite parts of the experience was building and enjoying the campfires, preferably with a bag of marshmallows nearby, and running around in wide-open space. As for their parents, we were reminded how very little we actually need. And although our Western Australia station stays came with challenges and inconveniences, it was an awesome, rewarding adventure we will never forget.
Now on to Carnarvon via Kalbarri! And if you missed Part One of our Western Australia road trip, check out our post on Jurien Bay and Lancelin. As always, thanks for reading!
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11 thoughts on “Western Australia Family Road Trip Part Three: Outback Station Stays”
Honestly got stuck watching the video, haha! I’m going camping in a few days and I’ve been looking for some recipes that I can use out in the wilderness!! Thank you so much for the great ideas!
Awesome! We love those campfire desserts… happy camping!
Amazing! great pictures too. Thanks for sharing. Your road trip sounds so much fun and full of adventure. Love reading your blog post.
Thanks for your feedback! 🙂
I’d never heard of stations stays until now and they sound like a great idea, especially for remote areas that Australia has to offer. We plan on visiting Oz again around Christmas time so will definitely look into this. Looks like a lot of fun! Thanks for sharing this!
We hadn’t heard of them either! And each one is so different. We also loved Bullara Station… we’ll be writing about that one soon, so watch this blog. 🙂 Thanks for reading!
Australia is on my bucket list and knowing that the stations have accomodations is very intriguing!
Yes! They can be really unique and fun. I saw on your blog that you’re from Texas… our home is San Antonio! 🙂
Awesome post! I’ve always wanted to visit Australia, both the east and west coast seem amazing!
Thank you. Western Australia is a hidden gem… most people talk about Sydney and other eastern cities… be sure to check out WA if you venture this way.
Thank you. Western Australia is stunning. If and when you venture this way be sure to visit WA. Beautiful.