Written by Christi Sparrow
How did our little family of four from the USA find ourselves embarking on a Western Australia road trip in June 2020? With two young children, a 2-wheel-drive rental car, one suitcase, and two sleeping bags, how exactly would we pull this off? Okay, so maybe I understated the amount of stuff we ultimately packed into our little Hyundai Tucson before moving out of our rental home in Burswood, a Perth suburb. But suffice it to say: we were off on a new, unexpected adventure!
We arrived in Western Australia in late January 2020 and found ourselves hunkered down in Perth for 10 weeks during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic in Australia. Australia and Western Australia in particular have done a truly remarkable job of flattening their coronavirus curves. COVID-19-related restrictions in Western Australia began to ease on April 27th, and by May 18th, most regional borders within Western Australia were reopened.
After monitoring the local news, advice of local authorities, and our own intuition, we decided to set out to explore more of the great state of Western Australia. So during the time when we were supposed to be back in the United States visiting family, meeting our new niece, and checking in with friends in Texas, instead we found ourselves preparing for a Western Australia road trip, chasing the sun north.
On June 16th we drove out of Perth. Our ultimate goal is to get to Exmouth… slowly. I’m writing these blogs as we go, so I invite you to follow along to see when, how, and if we make it that far north!
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Lancelin: 2 nights
An easy 90-minute drive brought us to Lancelin, a little fishing town about 122 km / 75 miles north of Perth and home to less than 800 people. We drove during the early afternoon so our son Camden could catch his nap. Since we were only staying for two nights, we opted to bring our groceries from Perth and cook at our rental home. Lancelin has an IGA Xpress, a general store, post office, a few restaurants, and a very helpful tourist information center which also sells locally made items such as tea towels, knitted items, and greeting cards.
Lancelin Sand Dunes
What a fun family spot! As residents of central Texas, we don’t often see gigantic sand dunes, so this attraction was especially amazing to us. Our 5-year-old daughter loved sliding down the dunes with and without a sandboard, and our 2-year-old son found endless entertainment scooting down the dunes and climbing back up “all by myself!” The dunes are a safe place for young kids to roam; all of their landings are soft!
Visiting in mid-June, the temperature was warm during the afternoon and dropped sharply once the sun went down. Speaking of, if you time your visit around sunset, you won’t be disappointed. Every 15 minutes the dunes changed like a chameleon as they reflected brilliant shades of orange and purple and pink in the sky as the sun sunk into the horizon. We just happened to go late in the day after Camden’s nap, and we were rewarded with a memorable sunset. This turned out to be a fortuitous outing because the following day was rainy and incredibly windy which makes for unpleasant conditions to hike up hills of sand!
Planning a Trip? Be Prepared.
You don’t need a 4WD vehicle to access the dunes. The entrance to the dunes sits just off of Beacon Road in Lancelin. You can check out this video for visual directions. You can easily drive quite close to the base of the dunes in a 2WD vehicle.
Sandboard rentals are available at the general store and the roadhouse, but we rented our board from a trailer at the dunes for $5 AUD. Once you summit the dunes, you can walk along the ridges toward the ocean. The vast swath of rolling sand dunes seems to stretch as far as you can see. It looks like a dessert, but the breeze is moist from the ocean. It’s an otherworldly experience.
Lancelin Lookout
This fully-accessible lookout point is a must-see in Lancelin. From the top there is a breathtaking 360-degree view of the ocean, the sand dunes, and Lancelin. I highly recommend making the trek for sunrise.
There is a parking lot on the north side of the lookout which connects to the paved, fully-accessible path that leads to the top. The lookout is also accessible from the south side by 54 stairs, (Chloe and I counted!). There is a paved trail that continues south along the coastline for about 2 km to the town center of Lancelin.
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Jurien Bay: 7 nights
A fishing town known for its pristine beaches, fishing, and Australian sea lions, we thought Jurien Bay would be a great place to settle for a week. The town has an IGA grocery store, several cafes and restaurants, and a beautiful tourist info center and library.
We left Lancelin around 10 am, and we broke up the one-hour drive to Jurien Bay by stopping through Wedge Island and Grey to see the shack settlements that line the beaches there. They are quaint, peaceful, mostly off-the-grid communities, and we could see why they make attractive getaways for their owners!
Sandy Cape
About 18 km, (11 miles), north of Jurien Bay, Sandy Cape is a beautiful beach and campground with it’s own towering dunes to explore— so don’t forget your sandboard! The top of the dunes provides a striking 360-degree view of the cape, and there is a boardwalk lookout from which you can take in the views, too. A perfect place to spend the day, Sandy Cape’s calm, clear waters are great for kids, swimming, and snorkeling.
We were fortunate to meet another traveling family who were driving up the west coast, too. Our families got along great, and so we all reconvened by their campsite at Sandy Cape later that day for dinner and marshmallow roasting before they continued on their journey. As we packed up the kids to head home around 8 pm, the starry sky put on a dazzling show, displaying the Milky Way like a glowing arc across the sky.
Lake Thetis
Close to the town of Cervantes, Lake Thetis is home to rare stromatolites and thrombolites, which are living marine fossils representative of the earliest organisms to appear on earth. Semi-submerged in the shallow part of the lake, they look like craters or volcano mouths.
The formations we saw date back about 3,500 years. But these unassuming modern formations are similar to those that existed 3.5 billion years ago and are the first known organisms to photosynthesize and produce oxygen, which supports life as we know it today! In fact, the stromatolites and thrombolites we saw were quietly bubbling away just under the surface of the water.
The trail around Lake Thetis is an easy 1.5km loop. The first portion of the trail near the stromatolites and thrombolites is fully-accessible. We took our stroller on the entire loop, and it got precariously rocky in a few sections, so I recommend wearing baby or maybe attempting the trail with a jogging stroller, as the larger wheels could probably handle the terrain relatively well.
Watch on our Travel with kids YouTube Channel: Jurien Bay: Things to do With Kids
We visited on a Saturday morning at around 9:30 am, and there were only a few other people on the trail. Our daughter really enjoyed spotting the bubbles and “green bacteria” on the lake, studying the information sign that showed the creatures living at the bottom of the lake, and hiking the entire loop all by herself. It was such a peaceful and engaging place to spend the morning, she didn’t want to leave!
Lobster Shack
Just 2 km from Lake Thetis in Cervantes is the well-known Lobster Shack. Offering factory tours of their live lobster processing plant, deep sea fishing charters, sea lion tours, and lobster catching tours, it was just their restaurant we had in mind for our visit. In fact, when we went the factory tours had been suspended due to renovations.
As we entered the large restaurant it was clear that they see lots of tourists! We ordered our Lobster Shack Roll, Bobby Lobby Burger, and grilled fish & chips at the counter, and then we chose a picnic table on their patio which extends right up to the sandy beach. The kids devoured the fresh fish, and our sandwiches were fantastic. (Though Chloe tried the lobster, she didn’t seem too impressed!) The food was delicious, and the scenery was idyllic. We all left with happy bellies!
Dobbyn Park Foreshore
This park is a peaceful recreation area located right in the center of Jurien Bay along the beautiful coastline. The park has picnic tables, green space, a playground, bathrooms, gas bbq’s, and exercise equipment. Plus the Jurien Bay Jetty extends from the shore here and makes for a convenient place to go fishing or take in a sunset.
Our kids loved the playground and the nearby beach. There are at least three great cafes within a stone’s throw: Bay Bakery, Meraki Cafe, and Jurien Jetty Cafe. So grabbing a yummy snack and a quality caffeine kick is super easy.
The Turquoise Way Path
This sealed, fully-accessible path starts at the Jurien Bay Boat Harbor on the north edge of town and extends 13.5km south to the mouth of the Hill River. Jay walked a significant portion of the trail and reported that it was a tranquil, picturesque stretch of coastline. The trail has very little shade, so plan accordingly and pack sunscreen, a hat, and plenty of water.
We attempted to drop Jay off at the southern end of the trail so he could walk north to Jurien Bay, but the long, gravel, sandy road we started to drive down was slightly precarious, and seemed too eerily deserted for our liking. Plus we had to push open a swinging road barrier to come off of Indian Ocean Drive, so we opted to return to Jurien Bay, and Jay started walking south on the trail from Dobbyn Park.
The Pinnacles Desert in Nambung National Park
If you’re looking for a magical, mysterious, unique natural wonder, look no further than The Pinnacles Desert in Nambung National Park. On this rolling desert stand thousands of “pinnacles”: silent, watchful limestone formations that scientists believe could have formed up to 500,000 years ago during the Ice Ages of the Quaternary period. Their precise origination is still a mystery, but two leading theories suggest that The Pinnacles are either the remains of a root-rich sand dune layer or a petrified forest. Either way, they are all at once peaceful, eerie, and breathtaking to behold.
The vast desert spans 190 hectares, (470 acres), and almost glows with golden sand the color and texture of cornmeal. (Our daughter said the sand reminded her of “mac and cheese powder”!) Our kids loved to dig and feel the coarse sand slip through their hands and fall diagonally on the breeze. The damp sand underneath the cornmeal layer was like crushed graham cracker pie crust.
For a $15 AUD park entry fee per vehicle, you can drive the 4 km unsealed loop in a 2WD vehicle. In addition to the main parking lot, there are various points along the loop where you can pull over to admire The Pinnacles. As you drive through the terrain, you will see how the average height, width, and even color of the formations morphs, displaying clues about the various environments in which they formed.
The Pinnacles Desert has a discovery center, gift shop, and bathrooms near the main parking lot. We visited on a Monday in June, and it was relatively quiet. There was plenty of space to spread out, and we felt like we were the only ones there. Of course tourism has been severely hindered due to COVID-19, and judging by the size of the parking lot, I’d guess The Pinnacles Desert normally feels like a busy theme park.
We returned to see The Pinnacles a few days later at sunset. We packed a picnic dinner, (chicken tacos, anyone?), and our winter coats, and we found a spot right by the lookout that gave us a clear view of the Indian Ocean. The soft, rosy sunset reflected off the limestone pillars and created an enchanting dining experience. We were one of only two vehicles parked by the lookout that evening.
The kids really loved playing with the gold sand again, and Chloe got completely engrossed in tracking animal footprints around our picnic blanket. We marveled at the silent sunset and waited the extra hour or so to watch the stars glow through the darkening sky. By the time we left around 7 pm, the night sky was alive with thousands of stars, and we could see the Milky Way.
With the Indian Ocean crashing softly in the background, The Pinnacles is a must-see stop for any Western Australia road trip. To stand in the presence of The Pinnacles is a humbling reminder of how amazingly miraculous our planet is, constantly evolving, even if imperceptibly, and how fleeting our time on this earth actually is.
Lesueur National Park
Only 23 km northeast of Jurien Bay, Lesueur National Park is an important Western Australia flora conservation reserve that is home to over 900 plant species. There is an 18 km scenic loop drive through the park which is an easy way to enjoy the landscape.
I read that the best time to visit the park is late winter and spring when most of the wildflowers are in bloom. Since we visited in late June, we were a bit early for the color show, but we still enjoyed spotting the unique vegetation that was unfamiliar to us. The kids liked finding the grass trees, banksia plants, and yellow wattle flowers.
Along the park loop drive, there’s a turn-off to Drummonds recreation area which has a small parking lot and bathrooms and serves as the trailhead for the 4 km return hike up Mount Lesueur. It’s a moderately difficult hike with loose gravel portions and a steep climb at the end via switchback. Only the first 250 meters of the trail is stroller and wheelchair friendly. I had no problems carrying our 2-year-old on my back in a soft baby/toddler carrier to the top of Mount Lesueur, but a structured hiking baby carrier would have been a little more comfortable.
The sweeping views from the top of Mount Lesueur were truly spectacular. We could see for miles over green bush, several other vistas, and the ocean. We even think we spotted an eagle flying overhead.
There was very little shade on the trail, so be sure to pack a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water! Happy hiking!
Page on our site that may be of interest to you: 7 Essential Family Travel Accessories
Three Bays Walk
On our last morning in Jurien Bay, we packed up, checked out of our Airbnb rental home, grabbed coffee from Family Affair Cafe, and headed north. After about 30 minutes, we stopped in Green Head to enjoy the scenic Three Bays Walk.
The fully sealed, 2.5 km walkway showcases spectacular views of South Bay, Dynamite Bay, and Anchorage Bay. There is parking, picnic tables and benches, bathrooms, and informative maps. It was a lovely attraction to see before piling back into our car and continuing on to Kalbarri!
Only nine days into our road trip, we have already been awed and humbled by incredible scenery and friendly people. If our first two stops are anything to go by, we’re in for a road trip of a lifetime here in Western Australia! Thanks for reading about our adventures!
Click here to read about the next leg of our Western Australia road trip: Kalbarri!
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7 thoughts on “Western Australia Family Road Trip Part One: Lancelin & Jurien Bay”
Fantastic post! Australia is so beautiful.
A road trip across Australia is high on our list of travel plans – I’ve saved this post for ideas of where to visit along the way.
Looking forward to the next installment!
Hi Sharon! Thanks so much for reading. Western Australia is a spectacular place, no doubt. We are humbled to be here. 🙂 All the best to you!
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What a great gift of a trip you’ve been given!! Great photos! And it looks absolutely amazing! Enjoy 🙂
Ohh your post made us miss WA so much 😍 now that we’re expecting our first baby, we already have grand plans to return and do a road trip with them in tow! Thanks for sharing
This looks amazing! Australia is on my bucket list, I would love to explore like you did! Thanks for sharing!
Beautiful photos, I feel like I’m there right now playing in the sand and looking out over the sea! Wish I was there, haha. Hope to visit soon! Thanks